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Reflections of a “Germadian” Abroad... |
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This Month: In Geneva, Switzerland...
This “Germadian” (German-Canadian, as coined by my
wife) has travelled all over the world. Each month, I will share with you my adventures in a different locale;
each month I hope to make you smile and think and dream...
Fresh, clean, crisp... like taking a bite out of a Granny Smith apple... full of “snap” and with a delightful panoply
of flavours... these are some of the attributes which come to mind when I think of Geneva. An old city with tons
of history and a “Vieille Ville” replete with cobblestoned streets to match, and yet, somehow young, fresh and
vibrant. It has the well-earned reputation for being the least-polluted city in Europe.
More than a watch-making, gold-smithing and banking mecca, Geneva is a city known for its considerable
religious and political significance throughout its history. First mentioned by Julius Caesar in his writings,
in 58 B.C., Geneva was a part of the germanic Burgundian, Merovingian and Carolingian kingdoms, before it was granted
a Liberty Charter in 1387 by Bishop Fabri. It rapidly earned an international reputation as an attractive centre
for banking and trade, and from the Reformation in the 16th century onwards, became home to Jean Calvin and his
Calvinist religious doctrines. In 1919, Geneva became home to the League of Nations, the precursor to today’s United
Nations.
My personal favourite place in the city is without question the Quai du Général Guisan
and the Jardins Anglais which border it. Situated within these “English Gardens” is the beautiful Floral Clock
(the only other one I have seen exists near the Niagara Falls in Canada); 5 metres in diameter, it takes 6,500
plants to make up its “face”. During the summer months, vendors in this public park with its sinuous walkways,
myriad flowerbeds and clusters of old trees, sell some of the best gelati (Italian ice cream) I have tasted outside
of Italy. At one end of the Quai, next to the Pont du Mont Blanc is the permanently-anchored “Le Bateau”, a charming
and romantic floating restaurant-in-a-boat.
It is at the other end of the Quai where my life-long love affair with Lamborghini automobiles first came to fruition.
I was strolling along the Quai back in 1972 (during one of my first of many visits to Geneva) when I spotted a
Lamborghini Miura parked at one side. It was love at first sight. These $200,000++ sports cars were still virtually
unknown in North America at the time, so it was hard to contain my excitement as I ran my hands over the finish
and photographed it at every conceivable angle.
The most fascinating sight in Geneva, and its best-known landmark since 1891, is the Jet d’Eau in the middle of
Geneva’s harbour (“la Rade”). Shooting a continuous jet of water 140 metres into the air at a speed of half a cubic
metre of water per second requires 2 groups of motorized pumps with a combined weight of over 16 tons and 1000
Kw of power. The jet is visible from most areas of the city, even at night, as it has been permanently lit since
1930.
This wonderfully relaxed city, home to such venerable historical figures as Jean-Jacques Rousseau (Father
of French revolutionary thought), Voltaire (French Philosopher/Author), Henri Dunant (founder of the Red Cross)
or more recently, Ingmar Bergman (Swedish film director/ tax exile), Geneva exudes an air of quiet refinemant and
statesmanship. Whether you are shopping on the Rue de Rhône or in the Place des Bergues for products with
names like Rolex, Patek Philippe, Omega, Céline or Courrèges, or whether you stroll through the lobby
of Grandes Hôtels like the Beau-Rivage, Le Richemond or Des Bergues, on your way to meet some diplomat for
lunch, elegance and sophistication filters through everywhere. If you must wear Levis or jeans while exploring
this city, at least set them off with a raw silk jacket and a pair of Gucci loafers (no socks!).
A sight not to be missed is the Palais des Nations, formerly the seat of the League of Nations and today the European
Headquarters of the United Nations. One of the most important conference centres in Europe, the complex accommodates
some 6,000 half-day conferences annually. The buildings themselves are beautiful architectural works built with
contributions of marble, granite, rare woods, paintings, tapestries, fine carpets, wrought iron and other materials
from so many nations, that the “...contents of the Palais des Nations exemplify the natural resources and artistic
skills of five continents.”
Swiss cuisine is unique and excellent and Geneva has its share of superb restaurants. Unique dishes include a variety
of fondues (especially the cheese fondues made with the real emmenthaler, gruyere, appenzeller and/or vacherin
cheeses) and another cheese dish: raclette (melted cheese eaten with small potatoes, pearl onions and gherkin pickles).
Cheese dishes are always accompanied by both wines and spirits (to “cut” through the cheese, so that it does not
“ball up” in your stomach). A good white Fendant goes well with cheese dishes and a full-bodied, robust Dôle
goes well with many meat dishes. A schnapps like “Kirsch” will help you digest the cheeses (vodka will do in a
pinch).
Of course, if you prefer lighter fare, there is a MacDonald’s in Geneva, near the Main Railway Station. I remember
overhearing a British dad asking his son how he liked the “Big Mac” he was eating... The private schoolboy’s reply:
“Ghastly, wasn’t it, Daddy?”
Text and Photos: Donald James Dunn
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